Thames Path day one: Kemble to Cricklade

This week being half term – and travel still being kinda, sorta, allowed – we took the opportunity to start a new long-distance walk – the Thames Path.

This is a 180-odd mile walk – or just shy of 300km if you work in those units, and I tend to. It runs right from the source of the river (or rather from a marked stone near where the source is meant to be) to the Thames Flood Barrier in London. Personally I’d like to see the walk run right to the sea, but I can only imagine there being a good number of reasons why that isn’t practical.

The first 100km or so of the Thames Path takes in some very remote locations, and it is worth lumping these early sections together where possible. This means getting a train to Kemble from London, which is straightforward enough, and then walking to Oxford which is the next big place where it’s easy to get to and from by public transport.

There are plenty of other ways of splitting the walk, but this worked for us based on the distances to be covered each day and the start and end points. It being October, we also opted for B&Bs and pubs with rooms – though camping is possible too.

Below is a recap and photos from the first section, with posts to follow for the next stages.


Day one of walking the Thames Path – from the source near Kemble to pretty Cricklade. When starting from Kemble railway station, one must walk to the source along part of the walk which entails doubling back a KM or two.

The river was invisible at the marked source but quickly emerged as a decent-sized stream at a spring named Lyd Well. We followed it through muddy meadowland and fields, and the young river is currently swollen in places from recent heavy rainfall. We had expected that the recent rainfall would have made the river visible from the source, but apparently not. Walking at this time of year the days are quite short. Today was a Saturday so we still had an extra hour of daylight which the next few days will lack, the clocks going back overnight.

We stayed at the White Hart Hotel, Cricklade, which is a nice little pub that does food and has plenty of rooms. Very comfortable and enough room for a session of post-walk yoga. We had also stopped for a drink on the way at the White Hart at Ashton Keynes which was a lovely place to take a break.

One unexpected joy of walking in October has been the huge numbers and varieties of fungi we have seen. They’re everywhere.

St Sampson’s Church at Cricklade looked very elegant floodlit in the dusk light.